If you are here, there’s a strong chance you consider the Lagazuoi trails too hard for you. Or, perhaps, you are looking for something to do instead of hiking Lagazuoi. Perfect! The picturesque Lago di Valparola is just around the corner.
During our summer adventure, we figured out last-minute what to do instead of going to Rifugio Lagazuoi with our baby. Walking around Lago di Valparola was a really relaxing and pleasant experience. After all, we are couch potatoes!
Keep reading to learn more about Lagazuoi hikes and about Valparola Lake.
Are you a couch potato? So are we! Nonetheless, when we do manage to get up from our lovely sofa, we enjoy spending time outdoors. We share our super-easy hikes, stories and adventures on our series “Hiking for couch potatoes“. If we can do it, you can do it too!
What is Lagazuoi?
Lagazuoi is a mountain located south-west of Cortina d’Ampezzo (map here). It is famous because of the historical trail through WWI tunnels that leads to the Rifugio Lagazuoi at the top, and for the absolutely stunning view of the Dolomites you can enjoy from its 2835 meters of altitude.
How to get to Lagazuoi
The start of the trails and of the Lagazuoi cable car is located at Falzarego pass, 18 km from Cortina.
To reach Lagazuoi from Cortina, take road SR48 towards Passo Falzarego (the accent goes on Fal-ZA-re-go). Shortly after you leave the town, after the large Hotel Villa Argentina on your right, take the right and keep driving upwards. You should reach the pass in approximately 30 minutes, but the traffic can make it much longer.
There are many curves on this road, so people who suffer from motion-sickness should be prepared.
At Falzarego pass, you will find the large Rifugio Falzarego restaurant and smaller Bar Bazar on the left, a small church in the centre of a fork, and the Lagazuoi cable car departure on the right (map here). Behind it, there is a very large parking.
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Lagazuoi hikes
Among all Dolomites trekkings and trails, the Lagazuoi hikes are very popular and scenic. They are among the best day hikes in the Dolomites.
The Lagazuoi trails starts from close to the parking lot. The difference in altitude is approximately 660 meters.
There are a number of trails and hikes on Lagazuoi mountain. I haven’t personally done any of them, so I recommend you read carefully the official page and you do your . The “frontline trail” seems feasible even for couch potatoes like us!
Until I feel inspired enough to do these hikes… I prefer to take the cable car and enjoy the view!
Lagazuoi cable car
The exciting Lagazuoi cable car takes you from the departure station at Falzarego Pass to the top in less than three minutes! That’s 627 meters difference, from 2105 meters to 2732 meters!
It is a memorable experience: the aerial cable-way doesn’t have any pillars, so the two 50-people cabins seem to hang effortlessly on the steel ropes.
The Lagazuoi cable car is one of the most beautiful cable car rides in Europe, according to the Italian Touring Club.
As of 2020, the cable car is open during the winter and during the summer; it opens at 9 and closes at 17, with rides every 15 minutes. A one-way ticket costs 13 EUR and a return ticket 18,50 EUR, except in August when the prices are 14 EUR and 19,50 EUR. Discounts are available for children and other categories. Find more info here.
Lagazuoi refuge
At 2752 meters of altitude, mountain hut Rifugio Lagazuoi is the highest and the largest mountain hut in Cortina d’Ampezzo. The view from its terrace is absolutely mind-blowing: it really feels like being on top of the world!
The refuge offers a restaurant and bar, comfortable rooms to spend the night, and an epic outdoor barrel sauna. The Pompanin family has built and managed the Rifugio since the 1960s and love to provide a wonderful experience to all their guests.
Unfortunately, we visited only once, a long time ago on a cloudy day. I hope we will be able to go there and spend the night soon: sunsets and sunrises are absolutely memorable! This is a picture taken by my aunt Francesca Camerati!
Our experience at Lagazuoi
Well, here’s the thing: during summer 2020, we didn’t actually make it to Rifugio Lagazuoi.
With our baby Alexander just three months old, we took it easy and reached the pass at 11. Being couch potatoes, we wanted to take the cable car to Rifugio Lagazuoi and enjoy the view, with a cappuccino and a slice of cake 🙂
Unfortunately for us, the queue outside of the cable car departure was very long. Due to the 2020 pandemic, the cable car was running only half-full, which ensured safety but slowed down the ascent. Possibly it wasn’t that slow, but our time-management with baby Alexander was a bit tricky. We should have been there at 9 AM!
We decided to have a cup of coffee and a slice of cake at the Bar Bazar hut by the road at Falzarego pass, and decide on what to do.
A spontaneous alternative: Lago di Valparola (Valparola Lake)
As an alternative to going up to Rifugio Lagazuoi, we decided to go to the picturesque Lago di Valparola. It was very close and was a good choice both for our level of fitness, and for Alexander’s hunger and patience.
Be efficient: When making your plans, have a plan B ready: an attraction nearby, another café or restaurant, something to see or do in case your plan A doesn’t work out.
Lago di Valparola is located 2 km after Lagazuoi pass (map here), by taking road SP24 on the right of the fork. We reached it in less than 10 minutes and parked our car in front of Rifugio Passo Valparola restaurant.
Valparola Lake is a few minutes away on foot. The path is a bit steep close to the restaurant, and then becomes easier on the grass. We walked down carefully, Darek holding Alexander in the front carrier.
We were almost alone and really enjoyed the peace and quiet by the lakeshore. Even though the road is really near, the noise of cars is weak. The beautiful scenery has a strong calming power: compared to the crowd at Lagazuoi, Valparola lake felt like a different planet.
Other things to do near Lagazuoi and Lago di Valparola
Italian and Austro-Hungarian soldiers fought in this area against each other during World War I. The Forte Tre Sassi hosts the Museo della Grande Guerra, a museum which showcases the history of World War I together with objects, weapons and memoirs of local soldiers. Consider that Cortina was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire back then!
Near the Museum and the Lake, some parts of trenches have been rebuilt and can be visited. Together with the Lagazuoi historical guide, you can learn a lot in just one day!
Unfortunately, by then we were tired and baby Alexander was very hungry, so we made our way down to Cortina. We hope to visit it soon!
Conclusion on Lagazuoi and Valparola Lake
As a couch potato, I was very satisfied of walking around the peaceful Lago di Valparola, instead of hiking and sweating all the way up to Lagazuoi.
I wouldn’t have chosen Lago di Valparola as the main destination, but together with the views of Lagazuoi and the surrounding peaks, it makes for an easy and pleasant few hours in the Dolomites.
Did you know about Lagazuoi and Lago di Valparola? Are you planning to travel there? Let us know in the comments!