Among all the hikes in Cortina, the Alpe di Sennes circuit is certainly one that shows all the different, stunning landscapes of the Dolomites, while being accessible even to couch potatoes like me.
From green pastures resounding with cowbells, to moon-like peaks with pink cues, you can really appreciate the beauty of the Dolomites of Veneto and Trentino-Alto Adige regions in Italy: the Alpe di Sennes circuit takes you to the Ampezzo Dolomites Natural Park and to the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Natural Park.
This couch-potato version of the Alpe di Sennes circuit includes only two rifugios: Fodara Vedla mountain hut and Sennes mountain hut. Biella mountain hut, the third one, is too far away for my legs: this is why I recommend this short version of the Sennes hike to all beginner and moderately-fit hikers like me.
Ready to plan your hike to the Alpe di Sennes circuit from Cortina? Find below lots of useful tips and the detailed itinerary.
Are you a couch potato? So are we! Nonetheless, when we do manage to get up from our lovely sofa, we enjoy spending time outdoors. We share our super-easy hikes, stories and adventures on our series “Hiking for couch potatoes“. If we can do it, you can do it too!
Tips for your hike to Fodara Vedla and Sennes
Make sure you are ready for this hike by following my advice. Do not underestimate the trail and do not overestimate your legs.
All this advice is clearly addressed to summer hikers, but it is very popular to reach these mountain huts also in the winter, with snowshoes or uphill skins under your skis.
Key features of the Alpe di Sennes circuit
- Distance: 3,6 up +2,5 up +7,6 down =13,7 km (8.5 miles) (according to Google Maps tracking)
- Altitude change: up 385 meters by shuttle bus, then up 448 meters on foot (loop back to the start)
- Time: 5-7 hours
- Huts: Rifugio Ra Stua (start, 1668 meters), Rifugio Ücia Fodara Vedla (1966 meters), Rifugio Ücia de Sénes (arrival, 2116 meters)
- Trail numbers: 6, 9, 7 (which is part of the famous Alta Via delle Dolomiti n.1), 6
What to wear to hike Alpe di Sennes circuit
First of all, check the weather and dress accordingly! Do not trust your average iPhone Weather app: the ARPA Veneto forecast is the only reliable one. Here is the short English version, and here is the long and technical Italian version.
In general, the summer weather in the Dolomites is more sunny and clear in the morning, and gets cloudy in the afternoon. Also, in the sun it can feel pretty warm, but in the shade of the trees it feels fresh. Layers will be your best friends.
You do not need any climbing gear for this hike, but good-quality clothing suitable for hiking is recommended, because you will definitely sweat a bit.
On the hike from Cortina to Fodara and Sennes, you should wear:
- Long or short pants, as long as they are comfortable and sporty. I like Karpos clothing.
- A t-shirt or tank top, preferably made of a tech fabric that absorbs sweat
- A hoodie for the shade and wind
- A rain jacket, if the forecast mentions rain (we packed a rain poncho with “Venice” written in the front 😀 tacky, but it was large enough to cover the packpack too)
- Good socks that won’t give you blisters, ankle-high at least
- Good shoes with a nice sole, resistant to the gravel and rocks of the trail. Low ankle is fine, like running shoes. Avoid a smooth sole.
- A hat or something to protect your head, if you wish
What to bring on the hike
You should aim at travelling light, bringing essential and important items while avoiding pointless weight. Your shoulders will thank you!
Of course, a hiking backpack with side pockets for your bottle and some clever small pockets is useful, but any backpack is fine. Again, consider the weight.
Essential items to pack:
- A water bottle – you can refill it at fountains at the huts
- Snacks – biscuits, crackers, bread, fruit (wrap it in a plastic bag if it can get squashed)
- Money – better bring some EUR in cash
- Phone – and power bank + cable, if you know you’ll take a million pictures (reception is low everywhere)
- Map – Google Maps unfortunately isn’t very helpful here! The Tabacco maps are the best ones, and their app Tabaccomapp is also great. You can purchase the piece of the map you need for just 3 EUR or so, and track your hike.
- Sunglasses – even if it’s cloudy
- Sunscreen – yes, even if you’re already tanned, and yes, use it also when it’s cloudy, and apply it on the tricky spots like the back of your neck and the back of your knees
- Paper tissues – for sneezing, toilets without paper, and any other occasion
- Plasters – and any meds that you will very likely need
- A plastic bag – collect your own trash, and pick up any that you see. Leave the world better than you find it!
Optional items to pack:
- Sandwiches, if you don’t want to eat at the rifugios/if you are on a budget
- Toothbrush and toothpaste
- Tripod, etc.
- A full change of outfit, e.g. long pants+shirt if you wear shorts, and viceversa (recommended if you sweat a lot, or if the weather seems very unstable)
Hiking with a child? We went with our 15-months-old Alexander in our Stokke back carrier! For him, we packed also:
- Essential diaper bag – 2 diapers, wipes, a plastic bag for the dirty diaper, a cloth to put on the changing mat
- Fruit and snacks – a wide variety, but he still liked our meals better (obviously)
- Bib, napkins and paper tissues, spoon
- Water
- 50+ sunscreen
- Hat
What is the best time for hiking to Rifugio Sennes?
The best season for hiking in Cortina is the summer, from mid-June to mid-September. The temperatures are highest and the weather is best in July and August, which are also the most crowded months.
The most crowded week of all is the one around or just after August 15th. However, don’t let this scare you: the hike is long and the trail is wide, so you won’t have to fight for space. Rifugio Sennes, however, could be crowded at lunch-time.
Time-wise, make sure you start this hike early by taking the first shuttle bus from Fiames at around 9.
Who can do the hike to Alpe di Sennes from Cortina?
If I did it, anyone can!
Jokes aside, the hike to Fodara and Sennes is easy-moderate, as long as you follow this itinerary: start with Fodara Vedla hut, and then go to Sennes hut, and NOT the other way round. I’ll explain later.
You do not need to be particularly fit or trained for this hike. Yes, you’ll be catching your breath on a few occasions, but nothing outrageous: just slow down and admire the panorama.
The way down the Val Salata trail, however, is quite steep in a few points, which could hurt damaged knees.
Tips for hiking to Sennes with children
Is the hike to Sennes family-friendly? It depends on your children: our toddler Alexander weighed 12 kg at 15 months, so he was quite a heavy backpack for us, but he didn’t struggle much (we fed him grapes until he fell asleep).
There was a nice changing mat in the Sennes hut, and the staff was very patient with him walking around the restaurant and eating bites from our plates.
On the shuttle bus from Fiames (Cortina) to Ra Stua, I held him on my lap and he travelled for free.
I don’t have experience with older children. However, I saw families with small children, walking slowly and looking at each and every flower: it may take much longer (and you may have to carry your child for a while), but it should be possible.
How much does it cost to go to Alpe di Sennes from Cortina?
There isn’t any ticket to pay to access the natural parks.
Calculate transport and food:
- 14 EUR per person for the return trip by shuttle bus from Fiames to Malga Ra Stua hut (compulsory in July and August)
- A coffee at the rifugios costs approx. 1,50 – 2 EUR
- A slice of cake or dessert costs 4-5 EUR
- A main dish costs 8-12 EUR, more if there’s meat (stew, steak, etc.)
- A beer or soft drink costs 3-5 EUR
The only fixed cost of this hike is the shuttle bus to Malga Ra Stua. Check the official Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti d’Ampezzo website for fresh information (here is the 2021 news) or ask at the Info Point in Cortina (map here, website here).
You can save some money by buying bread and ham at the supermarket and making your own sandwiches, and bringing other snacks.
Or, you can enjoy this day out and have some traditional food at the huts! For three adults, we spent 51 EUR at Sennes hut for a tasty lunch (breaded pork with salad, 2 enormous “Alpinista” omelettes with ham and cheese, plus drinks and coffee), and then 18 EUR at Malga Ra Stua for cake and refreshing drinks. All very worth it.
Detailed itinerary of the easy version of Alpe di Sennes hike
Let’s start with the basics: the trail I describe here is a circuit starting at Malga Ra Stua, then going up to Rifugio Fodara Vedla, then up even more to Rifugio Sennes, and then back down straight to Malga Ra Stua.
Many other websites and guides will tell you to go straight up from Malga Ra Stua to Rifugio Sennes. That trail, the Val Salata n.6, is way WAY too steep for us beginners. I’m serious: when I did it downhill, I knew I would have hated it if I were going up. Plus, the scenery is soooo much better going downhill.
So, my dear beginner-intermediate hiker, listen to me! Save your energies and enjoy a much better scenery: DO NOT walk up Val Salata from Malga Ra Stua to Rifugio Sennes. Instead, do it downwards, from Rifugio Sennes to Malga Ra Stua. You won’t regret it.
As I mentioned above, we beginners shouldn’t even consider reaching Rifugio Biella, the third one of the Alpe di Sennes full circuit. It’s better to enjoy this shorter and panoramic trail.
How to get from Cortina to Malga Ra Stua
The hike starts at Malga Ra Stua hut, north of Cortina.
To reach Malga Ra Stua from Cortina in the summer:
- Get to the Fiames Parking Lot / shuttle bus stop (map here, in Italian “Parcheggio Fiames – bus navetta”). You can get there by car and park for free, or use the public bus n.1 (timetable here and it may be free also in summer 2022. Ask the driver to let you off in the right place).
- Board on one of the 9-seater shuttles that leave every 20 minutes. Usually there are many and there is little or no waiting time. The cost in 2021 was 7 EUR per person, one way. The drive takes 10-15 minutes, on the main road for the first half, and on a tight and winding private road from the Sant’Uberto hairpin turn. The scenery is already pretty, with waterfalls next to the road, so I didn’t feel motion sickness.
We were very happy with the public bus because we didn’t have to worry about parking space, and it conveniently took us back to the centre. During summer 2021 the bus ran every 30 minutes.
From Ra Stua mountain hut to Fodara Vedla mountain hut – very uphill
Because we are grownups with proper jobs and salaries, we always start our hikes with a coffee at the first refuge 🙂 Malga Ra Stua, in a beautiful frame of green pastures, forest and mountains, is perfect for a snack. Their cakes are delicious too!
The trail from Ra Stua hut (1668 meters above sea level) to Fodara Vedla hut (1980 meters) can be divided into three parts:
– the first one rises gently until a wide green valley,
– the second one climbs up the side of the valley on a steep zigzagging road,
– and the third one is again almost flat, with gentle ups and downs.
It took us 1 hour and 45 minutes for these 3,6 km (not sure it’s the correct distance), with a slow pace, lots of pictures and a 15-minute break by a lake (9.25 to 11.10).
Leave the Malga Ra Stua hut behind you and head towards the valley. The first part of trail n.6 is a large dirt road made of gravel, surrounded by green meadows, pine trees and mountains. There are cows here and there, their bells echo around the valley – it’s magical! There is a stream on the left, soon a fountain on the right (water flows from a wooden pipe into a wooden trunk). The road goes slowly uphill, making it a very easy start.
In some 20 minutes, you should get to the fork at Ciampo de Cros (1750 meters). In front of you is a wide green valley with a cute tiny house, and the trail continues upwards, straight in the narrow and steep valley of Val Salata towards Rifugio Sennes – the one we beginners should do downwards. So, instead, take the left at the fork, towards Fodara Vedla on trail n.9.
Soon you will start the second part, the uphill zigzagging trail n.9 to Rifugio Fodara – a former mule track. If I did it, so can you! The trail is still wide (maybe not for a car, but almost), made of gravel, surrounded by trees that help with fresh shade. We met very few people (being mid-August we were quite surprised) and a few electric bikes (crazyyyy!). It’s not too steep, you can even have a conversation, but slowly our breath gets heavier. As you hike higher and higher, the views become more and more stunning! The climb takes approximately 35 minutes, and it takes you up by 200 meters. The rest is a breeze!
Here comes the third part of the trail: you are now quite high above the valley, there are fewer trees providing shade and it feels much warmer (on a windy day, it could feel colder though). Luckily the uphills are shorter and easier! The views of the valleys, pastures and forests are wonderful.
In approximately 10 minutes you will reach the small Lake de Rudo, quite green and a bit muddy, but still pretty under the high peaks. We had a short rest of 15 minutes to admire the view and have a snack.
Just 20 more minutes on the trail (still pretty wide and made of gravel) and you will reach the Fodara Vedla mountain hut. Shortly before, you’ll cross into the region of Trentino-Alto Adige and into the Natural Park Fanes-Sennes-Braies.
The first thing you will see of Rifugio Fodara Vedla is its shining roof! It’s not just a mountain hut: it’s like a cute village around the large Fodara Vedla hut, with lots of smaller buildings around it and even a tiny church. In front of the main entrance you’ll find a fountain to refill your bottle, some space to sit and rest, and finally some reception for your phone.
If you are very tired or feel pain anywhere at this point, I recommend going back to Ra Stua, and not proceed to Rifugio Sennes.
From Fodara Vedla hut to Sennes hut – some more uphill
To go from Fodara Vedla hut at 1980 meters to Sennes hut at 2126 meters it took us 1 hour and 5 minutes, at an easy pace. The elevation gain is small, the trail is large and open, surrounded by gorgeous views.
From Fodara Vedla hut, go back to the trail you came from, and continue toward Sennes. Soon you will see a shortcut on the right, a narrow trail, but I think it’s too steep for us beginners. Stick to the large, gravel road (path n.7).
There aren’t any trees near the trail, so it can get very warm in the sun, or the wind can feel even stronger. With some curves, some uphills and a couple of downhills, it’s not a tough trail – but it can be intense if you are not trained, and already tired from the first part of the hike (on one of the uphills, I didn’t even have breath to ask “are we there yet?” and I even volunteered to carry Alex on my back).
However, it is a very entertaining hike: you could find cows on the pastures and even on the trail; there are valleys opening suddenly to the sides of the trail; and most of all, you know the destination of your efforts is near!
After about 1 hour, you will be able to choose a steep shortcut on the left, or the normal trail on the right. Take the shortcut: the trail is just as steep behind the hill, and the shortcut will get you within reach of Rifugio Sennes in just 5 minutes!
Enjoy the view of the spacious, green valley surrounded by high peaks before turning your back to it and heading to Rifugio Sennes, at the end of a long, flat pasture.
You made it to Sennes Mountain Hut! Congratulations! The uphill part of the Alpe di Sennes circuit is done. You deserve a little rest, some fresh water from the wooden fountain in front of the hut, and then some lunch!
Rifugio Sennes has a spacious terrace with lots of tables, but the indoor tables are lovely too thanks to traditional decor of fossils, vintage wooden skis and pictures. Their cuisine is very traditional – polenta with sausage, with cheese, with goulash; more meat, more sausages, but also simple pasta dishes (a couple of them suitable to vegetarians). The most famous dish is the “Mountain climber Omelette”, a massive – MASSIVE – omelette with cheese, ham and tomatoes. Delicious!
We spent about 1 hour having lunch and relaxing a bit at Rifugio Sennes. Our bill was 51,80 EUR for 3 people = 17 EUR each for the main dish, a drink, and coffee. Pretty good for this view and for our full bellies 🙂
Lunch etiquette when hiking in the mountains:
- If you packed your lunch, DO NOT eat it on the restaurant tables. Just DON’T. Don’t order a coke, and then pull out your sandwich from the backpack. Don’t be that type of person, not even if the rest of your group will order lunch. That’s a lot of bad karma coming your way.
- So, if you packed your lunch, sit on the grass and enjoy the nature! There’s nothing better than that. I saw some brave hikers drinking a beer on the grass while eating their sandwiches!
- Of course, collect all your trash and bring it back to Cortina. If you can, avoid leaving it at the hut.
- Usually, Italian restaurants apply a fee per person called “coperto“, which means the cost of cutlery, the glass, tap water and bread. Instead, Rifugio Sennes doesn’t apply it, meaning that they don’t provide tap water and bread for free – you can ask for it and pay for it.
- Tips are not required but appreciated, especially for these hospitality workers that work extremely hard for such short periods. Anything between 1-5 EUR is nice – above 5 EUR and you’re the hero of the day 🙂
What’s beyond Rifugio Sennes? Well, this is a crossroads of many trails – hence the crowd you may find. Not far away is the Munt de Sennes hut, at 2245 meters – another time, maybe, it seems just 30 minutes more. Instead, up trail 6 (or trail 6a, the famous Alta Via n.1), is the Biella hut, at 2327 meters, sitting among mountains that resemble the moon. It looks amazing, but the only way my couch potato ass can get there is by helicopter 😀
From Rifugio Sennes to Rifugio Ra Stua – the downhill
Ready for the last part of the Alpe di Sennes circuit? It’s time to go back to Cortina! The walk downhill on the Val Salata trail took us 1 hour and 20 minutes – as usual with a lot of stops to admire the panorama and take pictures.
The trail n.6 of Val Salata goes down gently at the beginning, between green pastures, and then becomes steeper and steeper. It’s still a large gravel road, which is actually used by jeeps to reach Sennes hut.
Very shortly, you will realize why I recommended walking DOWN this trail, instead of up! In a few parts, it was so steep that my knees hurt; a couple was coming up on electric bikes and they still had to stop and rest. I can’t imagine walking up this trail as a beginner hiker – I think I would have cursed from the beginning to the end, and gone back home with a bitter memory of this gorgeous place.
Another reason to walk down Val Salata is that the panorama is much better in this direction. The wide and open valley, green with pastures, becomes narrow and tight, the mountain slope suddenly so close and high above you – you may even be able to see some ibexes! Instead, people walking up just see a narrow valley, if they have enough energy to lift their eyes from their shoes.
In less than 1 hour you’ll reach the wide pastures of Ciampo da Cros and you will walk by the cute little house you saw earlier this morning (before climbing up the zigzagging path). A few cows later and you’re back at Rifugio Ra Stua.
Wow, you made it back! How are you feeling! My advice is to rest and celebrate at Ra Stua hut. We ordered a refreshing glass of water with raspberry syrup and lemonade (it’s called a skiwasser) and a slice of delicious Sacher cake – recommended with all my heart.
There were already a few shuttles waiting to board hikers, and in no time we were back at Fiames. Tired and satisfied, we went home and stayed on the sofa until dinner time 🙂
Planning your trip to Cortina d’Ampezzo? You may also be interested in:
My complete guide to Cortina d’Ampezzo
The easy version of the Croda da Lago hike
The beautiful Fanes waterfalls hike
The wonderful Old Railway walk
The hike to Lake Pianozes, a hidden gem in Cortina
The easy hike of Pian de ra Spines
The pretty Valparola Lake
Final thoughts on the hike to Alpe di Sennes circuit
Congrats, you’re ready to go! To sum it up, if you’re a beginner hiker like us, consider that we walked uphill for approximately 3 hours (with a couple of stops), rested for lunch for 1 hour, and then walked downhill for almost 1,5 hours. We were tired and a bit sore, but nothing extreme – however, we took it easy for a few days with some relaxing walks on the Old Railway, some ice-skating, and slow strolling in the town center.
I believe this easy version of the Alpe di Sennes circuit (from Ra Stua hut, to Fodara Vedla hut, to Sennes hut, and back to Ra Stua hut) is a great hike for beginners in Cortina: it’s hard enough to make you feel satisfied with your efforts, the landscapes of the Dolomites are wonderful and different from the valley of Cortina, and there’s excellent food to try at the huts.
I hope you gained a lot of useful information! Did you do the Alpe di Sennes hike, or are you planning to? Let me know in the comments 🙂
