After spending a week there, I’m eager to recommend the area of Salento in the region of Puglia for a family holiday: you’ll find the crystal clear water, the gorgeous countryside landscapes, the delicious food, the pretty towns, the long history and the fascinating culture. And it’s pretty cheap to visit!
While certainly all of Italy is wonderful, Puglia is truly special and still somewhat undiscovered.
Can you believe that you can have all this in 1-2 hours of driving from your accommodation? Here is the best Puglia family holiday itinerary ever!
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Basic information about Puglia, Italy (Apulia)
First of all, let’s get to the key points.
- Where is Puglia? The region of Puglia is the heel of Italy’s boot (in English you might find it as “Apulia”, map here). Puglia is largely surrounded by seas: the Adriatic to the North and East, the Ionian Sea to the South and West, and of course the rest of Italy to the North-West. The capital is Bari, where is the main airport.
- Is Puglia good for kids? Puglia is a great destination for a family holiday in Italy: the water is clean, the beaches are mostly sand, food can be cheap, and there is enough infrastructure for travellers like you and me (pale office people who need umbrellas on the beach).
- What to see in Puglia? Both large and small towns are picturesque and unique: Bari, Lecce, Alberobello and Polignano a Mare are among the most popular. As you drive, you’ll be mesmerized by the olive trees groves, vineyards, and fields, dotted by farms (many abandoned, sadly). Outside of big towns, the architecture recalls Greece: small, white houses with a flat roof, and prickly pears all over the place (in Italian: fichi d’India). The light is bright and striking – the first thing that makes you feel on holiday.
- When is the best time to travel to Puglia? In my opinion, the best periods are the end of May, June, and September/October: this is the shoulder season when most kids are still in school/back in school and you’ll avoid the crowds (the main difference is that the sea water is still fresh in June, while it’s warmer in September). July and August are hot and crowded, which might be enjoyable for some.
- What’s the best way to travel around Puglia? The best way is by car, especially with kids. Freedom and flexibility are key; I would rely on the public transport system only to move between the major cities. A road trip to Puglia is the best way to admire the scenery and discover the beautiful destinations.
Most of Puglia is beautiful and worth visiting: cities, towns, beaches… However, time is precious and choices have to be made. I am very satisfied of our itinerary because it combined all three in a balanced way.
What to do in one week in Puglia with family: relax on the beach and local exploration by car
Puglia was our first holiday to the seaside with our son Alex, who was 3 years old. My parents joined us in their car, so we landed in Bari and started our road trip in Puglia.
On this holiday in Puglia, we wanted to – and we managed to:
- Relax at the beach, by the pool, swim, and play with Alex
- Avoid changing hotels multiple times
- Sleep a lot
- Eat good local food
- Visit some of the famous and beautiful towns
- Drive short distances
- Avoid tantrums and have fun
How did I plan this itinerary in Puglia for my family of 3 generations?
- I looked online for recommendations and asked trusted friends
- I saved a lot of locations on Google Maps
- I compared the distances from the airport, to the seaside areas, to the towns we wanted to visit
- I chose an area as base, and pictured our daily routine and plan
- I checked Booking.com for accommodation, made an estimate of expenses, and finally chose a hotel with organized beach and half-board, instead of an apartment that would force us to cook/find restaurants and restrict our fun at the beach
- STOP. I did not plan ahead what to do and when. I decided to be spontaneous, trust the weather and our mood: all my starred locations on Google Maps would be useful when needed.
Do you want to avoid all this hassle? Follow my detailed itinerary below for a wonderful week in Puglia! Quick summary of our relaxing road trip:
Day 0: landing/arriving
Day 1: visit the towns of Alberobello and Ostuni
Day 2 and 3: relax at the hotel at Campomarino di Maruggio, at the beach and pool
Day 4: visit the city of Lecce and the southernmost tip at Santa Maria di Leuca
Day 5 and 6: relax at the hotel again
Day 7: visit Polignano a Mare and Bari, departure
With a small child, this was the perfect balance of relaxation and exploration for us.
Useful tips for a successful trip to Puglia
- The most useful apps for a holiday to Puglia are Google Maps, Booking.com, the EasyPay parking app, and Google Translate.
- Make sure you have storage on your phone for the gazillion pictures you’ll take, and a battery bank.
- Cash is still popular and many places don’t/can’t accept cards, so use the awesome Wise multi-currency card to withdraw Euros and save on currency exchange fees.
- Comfortable shoes and sunscreen are a must.
- You definitely can drink tap water.
- Don’t take opening hours for granted. In the hottest summer days, shops might close from noon to 5 pm.
- With a small child, pack your baby carrier as well. Puglia is largely flat and town streets are usually in reasonable conditions for strollers… But it might be handy to have an alternative in areas with hills.
- Eat and drink everything. Pasta with fresh fish and local vegetables, bread with olives and focaccia, coffee and wine, and most importantly, the wonderful pasticciotti custard cakes. You won’t regret it 🙂
Where to stay in Puglia with kids
Grand Hotel dei Cavalieri is a great choice for a family: relaxing environment, great food, and its location is perfect for exploring the south of Puglia by car (map here).
We started our days with a full and delicious breakfast on the top floor, with a view of the surroundings and the sea.
The beach is located 15 minutes away on foot, passing by pretty summer houses. There’s also a tuk-tuk shuttle, a fun ride for all of us!
At the beach, our white office skin was glad to be protected by umbrellas. We played on the soft sand, and swam a bit in the fresh sea, before having a sandwich at the nearby restaurant, in the shade of maritime pines. The perfect atmosphere – at the end of May, there were very few guests!
The pool by the hotel was great for Alex’s first experience. It becomes deep very slowly, the tiles are coloured from yellow to blue to resemble the beach, it’s surrounded by sun chairs where we could chat and relax. The best part was ordering an aperitivo before dinner 🙂
Dinner is served in a spacious hall. It’s a very large and diverse buffet for all tastes: lots of starters, different types of pasta, at least 2 main dishes of meat or fish, and fruit. Children and adults, omnivores and vegetarians and even vegans, there’s something for everyone.
Book directly on the Grand Hotel dei Cavalieri here and contribute to the local economy, or book here on Booking.com and I will receive a small commission. Either way, thank you!
As an alternative to Campomarino di Maruggio, I would have chosen the nearby Porto Cesareo: I like the Hotel Paladini, or a typical “Masseria” traditional housing like Masseria Trappeto.
7-day itinerary for a family holiday in Puglia, Italy
Day by day, here is what we did in Puglia as a family with grandparents, us parents, and our 3-year-old son. It was a great and balanced holiday for everyone.
Day 0: Arrival in Bari
We were sooo excited to travel! We landed in Bari Airport after 10 p.m., and my parents came to pick us up (otherwise, we would have rented a car).
WHERE TO STAY IN BARI: We stayed at Hotel La Baia, a nice property 10-15 minutes away from the airport: away from the noise, and near the sea. Breakfast on the top floor terrace with a view of the sea in the distance was the best beginning ever.
Day 1: Alberobello and Ostuni
On the way to Campomarino di Maruggio, our destination, were located two of the best attractions of Puglia: the towns of Alberobello and Ostuni.
Considering Alex’s nap after lunch, I planned to visit Alberobello in the morning, and then let him sleep during the drive to Ostuni. After a quick visit to Ostuni, we would reach our hotel in time for dinner.
Alberobello in one morning
Alberobello is famous for its unique houses called “trulli”, whitewashed cylinders topped with a black conic roof. It’s definitely a must-visit in Puglia and it makes for a perfect day-trip or half-day trip.
It is located south of Bari, inland, approximately 55 km/1 hour away by car (map here). It is very popular and touristic, so be patient while looking for a parking spot and use the EasyPark app to pay.
We spent 3 hours in Alberobello (from 11 to 14), strolling around and enjoying the picturesque architecture.
From the central avenue Largo Martellotta, we explored to the North until the Trullo Sovrano, the largest trullo that can be visited inside for just 2 EUR – head in and discover how people used to live!
Then, we crossed south to the Rione Monti neighbourhood, a feast of the eyes. It’s just adorable trulli houses all around, big and small, simple and decorated, homes and shops and cafés, it’s a fairytale! We walked up the small hill on Via Monte Cucco until the perfect Trullo Church of Saint Anthony, and then down the popular shopping street Via Monte Pertica – Via Monte San Michele. It was fun and enjoyable, I’d go back there in a second.
Did you know that these unique houses were born as a clever idea to avoid paying taxes? In the 1500s, the Acquaviva Counts allowed the local farmers to build their homes only with local dry stones, and without mortar, so that they could be demolished during inspections and then rebuilt: this way he wouldn’t have to pay taxes to the king of Spain. The locals came up with this smart way of using the materials at their disposal. It became a tradition and a valued heritage, to the point that it became UNESCO Cultural Heritage in 1996.
After a sandwich at Fcazz e Birr, an ice-cream, and a coffee, we were ready to head to Ostuni.
IS ALBEROBELLO A GOOD PLACE TO VISIT WITH CHILDREN? Yes, definitely! There is so much to see that is nowhere else in the world; the streets are easy to explore on foot, with few cars and stairs; between cafès and bistros and ice-cream shops, they will definitely find something to eat. If you come with a stroller, keep in mind that it’s a little hilly.
What to see in Ostuni in 2 hours
The drive from Alberobello to Ostuni is 35 km and 45-50 minutes, perfect for Alex to nap in the car – and we napped for 20 minutes as well! (map here)
They call it the White City for a reason. You’ll find the old town of Ostuni on a small hill, surrounded by olive groves with the Adriatic sea as backdrop: just like a Tuscan town is red of old medieval bricks and turrets, Ostuni is white and bright, with flat roofs and church towers. It reminds of Greece!
We walked to the main square Piazza della Libertá, with its imposing Church of San Francesco d’Assisi and the Sant’Oronzo Column, had a coffee and ice-cream, and then set out to explore the winding streets leading to the top.
The picturesque main street Via Cattedrale climbs up the hill and is lined with boutiques of local handcrafts and souvenirs. Here and there narrow alleys looked mysterious and picturesque.
At the top of the climb, on the right stood the majestic façade of Cattedrale Santa Maria Assunta cathedral, with the interesting archway Arco Scoppa in front of it. The street continues uphill a little more – such a photo spot between potted plants and home doors! And finally, you’re out of the buildings admiring the view.
If we had time (and no child), we would have had an aperitivo at the chill bar there by the city walls called Borgo Antico Bistro. Instead, we wandered down through side alleys, by colorful doors and windows, next to restaurants and bars hidden in courtyards, and even through small gatherings of local ladies chatting through the afternoon.
IS OSTUNI A GOOD PLACE TO VISIT WITH A CHILD? Yes, I think so. It’s pretty, it’s diverse, the main street is a bit steep but still easy to walk up. We spent 2 hours in Ostuni, from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.. I think it was the right amount of time to get a feel of the iconic old town, while still keeping Alex’s good active mood.
We drove to our accommodation, Grand Hotel dei Cavalieri in Campomarino di Maruggio, in time for the dinner buffet, and went straight to bed (map here and book here). That was an excellent first day of our holiday in Puglia, Italy.
Day 2 and 3: relax at the beach and at the pool
After a busy day sightseeing, we were happy to relax at the beach, eat ice cream at the restaurant under the shade of the trees, nap, and play by the pool.
One afternoon, we ventured to the other side of the city center, to explore the pier and the sand dunes (map here).
At the pier, we liked the view of the beach and the sea, and the street art was pretty cool! Shame there was some garbage stuck among the rocks.
On a weekday at the end of May, the beach was almost deserted. We walked with our toes in the water and explored the raised wooden platforms that formed a trail on top of the sand dunes, among the bushes of indigenous plants. Just the right amount of wilderness 🙂
Day 4: Lecce and Santa Maria di Leuca
After two days of rest, it was time to explore two beautiful cities in Puglia: the busy and historical city of Lecce, and the southernmost town of Santa Maria di Leuca.
This was a full-day trip:
- Departure from Grand Hotel Cavalieri at 9.30
- Drive to Monteruga, 30 km in 45 minutes
- Explore the abandoned town of Monteruga, 10 minutes
- Drive to Lecce 40 km in 50 minutes, arrive at 11:20
- Explore Lecce, 2 hours
- Drive to Santa Maria di Leuca, 75 km in 1h30
- Explore Santa Maria di Leuca, 1 hour
- Drive back from 4 p.m., 110 km in 2 hours
- Arrival back at the Hotel at 6 p.m. approximately.
It was a nice, easy itinerary with beautiful attractions along the way.
The ghost town of Monteruga
First of all, we drove to a hidden destination in Puglia, the abandoned town of Monteruga (map here and access from this dirt road from SP109 main road).
According to blogs and destination sites, this village was built during the fascist period: a main square with a church, surrounding buildings for families and farm workers, big constructions that look like factories. Some 800 people lived here during the 1950s! Unfortunately, it was slowly abandoned as people moved towards the larger cities in the 1980s, until it was left empty.
The area was purchased by a football manager a few years ago who put armed guards around it, and abandoned again when he passed away.
As of 2023, the atmosphere is a bit eerie, like a Far West movie set. There are some “no trespassing” signs along the “entry road” through the trees and on a few buildings , but it seems that nobody cares. There’s nothing left!
We drove to the main square and got out to explore. All the rooms are empty, some of the walls seem a bit unstable so it’s safer to stay outside. We had a look inside the church as well.
Overall, it was a quick 10-minute stop. We held Alex by his hand, so we were safe and enjoyed this special destination. I recommend all brave visitors to keep an eye out, as the ownership and situation of Monteruga might change.
What to see in Lecce with a child
At 11.20 we arrived in Lecce, a city of 100.000 inhabitants and the capital of the province (map here).
Lecce is famous for its Baroque architecture built with a special local limestone, for olive oil and wine production, and ceramics. It boasts gorgeous churches, a small Roman amphitheater, and a charming old town with delicious eateries and pretty boutiques.
We parked and headed straight for the main square, Piazza Sant’Oronzo. After a coffee at Caffé Alvino with a traditional “pasticciotto” small cake filled with custard cream, we wandered along Via Vittorio Emanuele street until the Cathedral of Maria Santissima Assunta and Saint Oronzo, and made our way back around Carlo V Castle as dark clouds started to gather above us.
We left with our eyes full of beautiful, old, white buildings, inviting courtyards with colorful shops of unique souvenirs and handicrafts, and the definitive feeling that there was much more we could have seen in Lecce if we had more time.
IS LECCE A GOOD CITY TO VISIT WITH CHILDREN? Yes, I think it is an easy and beautiful city to walk around for a few hours. Alex was quite busy with pointing out new things and colorful details. The sweet pasticciotto felt like lunch for us, but we could have eaten sooo much delicious local food.
What to do in S. Maria di Leuca
Alex napped in the car while we drove for 1,5 hours to Santa Maria di Leuca, the last town on the southernmost tip of Puglia (map here).
We arrived in Santa Maria di Leuca and spent an hour there. The main attractions are the church, the square, and the lighthouse. The church is literally called “Santuario di Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae”, which means Mary’s sanctuary at the end of the earth! (map here)
We explored and walked down behind the lighthouse. In May, the scenery was gorgeous! Green, lush grass and bushes, prickly pear cactus with blooming flowers or small fruits growing, and the wild sea all around us. (map here)
The town was pretty deserted on a weekday in late May. Before we could find an ice-cream, we reached the opposite tip of Punta Ristola Leuca (map here): it was easy to park, walk down to the promontory, and admire the lighthouse we had just visited. On clear days, they say you can see Albania and Greece, and see where the waters of the Adriatic Sea meet the Ionic Sea.
IS SANTA MARIA DI LEUCA A GOOD PLACE TO VISIT WITH CHILDREN IN PUGLIA? Yes, the scenery is beautiful and pretty special. There’s space to walk around and explore, and more bars and restaurants should be open in the summer. Older kids might be interested in looking at a map, and realizing just how south they are, how close to the other side of the sea!
Day 5 and 6: relax at the beach and the pool at Grand Hotel dei Cavalieri
We enjoyed 2 more great days at Grand Hotel dei Cavalieri. We climbed on the funny tuk-tuk to go to the beach, we chatted and swam – the water was fresh!
Because there were very few guests, we were able to have nice conversations with the staff. They were all incredibly kind, welcoming, and talkative. It was truly a special experience!
Day 7: Polignano a Mare, Bari, and airport
On our last day, our flight was leaving from Bari pretty late at night. Consequently, we planned to stop at the gorgeous town of Polignano a Mare in the morning, and then to explore the old town of Bari in the afternoon.
Visit Polignano a Mare with a child
After breakfast, we packed our bags and reached Polignano by 12.30 (100 km in 1h45, map here). It was a very warm day of national holiday: it was very crowded, so we stopped at the first ice cream shop and had a snack/lunch.
Polignano is famous for the spectacular view of a narrow beach with crystal clear water, surrounded by the old town buildings perched on top of the nearby cliffs. I’m happy to confirm that it is as jaw dropping as the pictures show.
We wandered from the Arco Marchesale entrance through the compact old town and its twisting alleys, with and against the crowd. It’s a swirl of white walls, colorful doors, cacti and plants, cute handcraft shops and inviting smells of local delicacies.
There are two famous viewpoints: one here overlooks the sea and the cliffs to the right, and another one that overlooks the famous beach “Lama Monachile” and the unbelievable water. As much as the crowd was annoying, the view was absolutely impressive and I would definitely visit again. (you’ll find them even without Google Maps, because the old town is tiny!)
Crossing the bridge over the beach is a whole other sequence of wows. Complete your set of postcards by venturing until the statue of famous singer Domenico Modugno – the one of Volare Oh Oh! – so that you’ve seen the famous beach from both sides.
IS POLIGNANO A MARE A GOOD PLACE TO VISIT WITH CHILDREN IN PUGLIA? It is feasible, yes. Depending on the crowd, it might be a bit stressful, but I think any child would be impressed with something in this gorgeous old town. We spent 2,5 hours with our 3-year-old son and it was enough for our patience.
What to do in Bari in a few hours
On the drive from Polignano to Bari, Alex had his nap. We arrived in Bari at 15.30 and explored the old town for 3,5 hours (including dinner)(map here).
As you can already notice from Google Maps, the old town of Bari is the medieval tangle of streets in the northern part of the small peninsula, while the southern and more regular area was planned and built later. I had marked on Google Maps the main churches and the Swabian Castle, so we walked around spontaneously from attraction to attraction.
We started with the Swabian Castle, or Castello Svevo (map here). Entrance was free because it was a national holiday! We explored the main halls and admired all the historical artifacts on show. The castle was built in 1132 (destroyed, rebuilt, and expanded later), and there were some fascinating sculptures and architectural elements in the exhibits.
The old town of Bari was very authentic and charming. We got lost a couple of times, which was fun: the alleys are so narrow that we almost stepped through the hung clothes and into a family’s living room. The San Sabino Cathedral and the Basilica of San Nicola were magnificent. In general, the atmosphere was very relaxing: a warm afternoon perfect for strolling around.
We had quite a bad dinner at Bar Templari restaurant (map here). We were hungry and tired, but all the cool street food joints with fresh fish were still closed, so we ended up having some mediocre pasta here. I don’t recommend it.
Just before leaving, we had a quick walk to the Petruzzelli Theater and Palazzo Mincuzzi building, both stunning.
My parents drove us to the airport in Bari, and that’s the end of our 1-week holiday in Puglia!
IS BARI A GOOD DESTINATION WITH A CHILD? I think so: the old town is flat and easy to walk, safe pretty much car-free. Churches stay fresh even on hot days. However, there aren’t any playgrounds in the area.
More cool places to visit in Puglia with children (or without)
I had noted many more places in southern Puglia (the area of Salento) that we didn’t make it to. Here they are:
- Castel del Monte, literally the Castle on the Mountain. It looks very cool and unique! (map here)
- Grotte di Castellana, amazing karst caves with a route through them. Next time for sure (map here)
- Parco dei Dinosauri, a park with dinosaurs entertainment. It seems small but nice (map here)
- The town of Gallipoli, with its old town and fortress (map here)
- The city of Otranto, also with old town, fortress and sea promenade (map here)
- Palazzo Sticchi looks very special and beautiful (map here)
Final thoughts on spending a week in Puglia with a small child
This holiday in Puglia was very easy, diverse and entertaining for all of us – 3-year-old Alex, Darek and I, and my parents. We could relax by the seaside, visit beautiful towns, eat delicious local food, and drive through the picturesque Apulian countryside.
I recommend it to all families who are looking for a spot of sun and sea in Italy. (You might want to check out my Sicily itinerary as well! We didn’t have Alex yet, but I’d do it again with him confidently).
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