When Alex was almost 3, we spent one week in Finland in February: we wanted to visit family, tour the capital, and go see Santa up north. It was a great week, filled with beautiful sights (both in the city and in nature), delicious salmon and Finnish delicacies, and an exciting night train ride on the Santa Claus Express.
Keep reading to find out the itineraries, highlights, and useful tips for a 1-week family trip to Finland.
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Itinerary for one week in Finland with small kids
Alex was almost three when we travelled to Finland, so I planned a diverse itinerary that included attractions for us, time to run for him, frequent snacks for all of us, and time to nap after lunch for him. I also kept it quite loose, so that we could adapt it to our mood, energy levels, and to the weather.
I’m glad that we didn’t use the stroller anymore, because it was one less thing to carry, and also all the walking made him tired. Looking back, I should have included some time in actual playgrounds, which are more fun than just running around in the city.
Here is our itinerary in Finland for a week with young children:
- Day 1: arrival in Helsinki
- Days 2-3-4: Helsinki 2 days, Porvoo 1 day
- Night of day 4: night train to Rovaniemi up north
- Days 5-6: Rovaniemi and Santa Village
- Night of day 6: night train back to Helsinki
- Day 7-8: Helsinki and departure
What’s the best time to travel to Finland with kids? We travelled in February and had a great time, but I think any time of the year is great. In February we experienced sunny days, snow, and freezing wind (the wind was the worst of it, to be honest). Years ago we travelled to Finland in June as well (to Helsinki and to Tampere), when the days were endless and the weather nice and warm. Both the cities and the landscapes must be gorgeous in spring and fall as well.
Was it dark in February in Finland? Absolutely not. Helsinki is in the south of Finland and there were many hours of light. The darkest days are the second half of December, and of course the more you go north, the longer is the darkness. Either way, I think you could follow this itinerary even in the darkest days of the year.
Is Finland suitable for kids? We felt absolutely safe and happy. Everybody was kind and welcoming, traffic was peaceful, there were plenty of food options, and lots to do with kids.
What to do in Helsinki with kids
We spent three days in Helsinki, Finland. I didn’t have any rigid plans; as usual, I had marked many stars on my Google Maps, of places both outdoors and indoors. I knew I wanted to visit a few of them, and I was ready to play around with the others, depending on the weather and our energy levels.
Visiting Helsinki’s city center with a child
Helsinki’s city center is a great place to visit with a toddler! Many iconic buildings are very close to each other, so it’s easy to walk around and let them explore, while we appreciate the beautiful architecture. It’s also very safe, and well connected by public transport to the rest of the city.
These are my favourite outdoor places to visit in Helsinki’s city center:
- 1. The epic Helsinki Cathedral Helsingin tuomiokirkko, a massive yet graceful white church elevated above Senate Square (map here)
- 2. Uspenski Cathedral, an orthodox cathedral whose red bricks are just calling me to get closer (map here)
- 3. The old market Vanha Kauppahalli, cute and traditional, located near the market square Kauppatori and the docks (map here)
- 4. The Esplanadi park/avenue, a bit sad in February, but definitely pretty and classy when green or covered in snow – say hello to the statue of Finland’s national poet, Runeberg! (map here)
- 5. The main train station Helsingin päärautatieasema, so grand and dramatic (it looks epic even in my ugly picture!) (map here)
- 6. The Finnish National Theater, in the square next to the station (map here)
- 7. The Ateneum art gallery, also in the square next to the station, such elegance! (map here)
These 7 spots are max. 10 minutes on foot away from each other! (Ok, 20 if your toddler tries to go the opposite way). We walked for a couple of hours under the warm midday sun, before heading for lunch at the Market Hall.
In general, Helsinki is a beautiful city and we enjoyed walking around (except for the icy wind). Gorgeous, diverse architecture from classic to modern, lots of cafès and bakeries and cute shops, clean and tidy, respectful drivers… excellent for a family that is already busy holding children by hand.
6 free indoor places to visit with children in Helsinki
Whether it’s the weather, or you’re tired, or the kids are bored, keep in mind these spots in Helsinki! They will save you and your kids on a cold or rainy day, or when it’s their turn to have fun. Plus, entrance is free!
- 1. The unbelievable Oodi Public Library, located near Helsinki Train Station. Such a cool modern library in an incredible modern building. Take your time to explore the ground floor, among study tables, meeting rooms, 3D printers, sewing equipment, labs with mysterious machines. Then make your way up to this endless open floor: books, music sheets, videogames, board games, chairs and tables, all under a wavy ceiling. It feels like a peaceful and brain-stimulating space ship. On top of all this, on one end there is a play area and activities for kids! We could have spent hours and hours there. Entrance is free.
- 2. The small and interesting Tram Museum. There are six historical carriages to be explored, and lots of exhibits about Helsinki and the development of its public transport system. Very hands-on and educational. We spent 1 hour there. Entrance is free.
- 3. The Children’s Town at Helsinki City Museum, a super interactive exhibition for kids to play around the Helsinki of old times: there’s a horse carriage, a pantry with food, old clothes for boys and girls, an old school classroom, lots of books, a grandma’s living room and kitchen, and much much more. We spent 1,5 hours there (and we didn’t even look at the café and at the grown-up exhibitions). Entrance is free.
- 4, 5 and 6: In case you didn’t visit them during your stroll around the city center, make sure you visit the Helsinki Cathedral (very bare and simple), the Uspenski Cathedral (mosaics love love love) and the Central Market Hall (sooo much delicious food).
Visit Helsinki by tram
I love to use public transport while travelling. I find it’s a great and cheap way to see lots of highlights, and it also gives me a glimpse of what it’s like to live there. (And public transport maps are so cool, here are the Helsinki ones).
Alex loves riding the tram! In Helsinki, I decided to combine tramway sightseeing with Alex’s naps. We boarded right after lunch, and he was asleep within a few stops! We went back and forth on the same line for about an hour, until he woke up.
One day, we boarded tram line 4 near Uspenski Cathedral and crossed the whole city, until the north-western corner in Munkkiniemi. We saw the gorgeous Cathedral again, along the main street Aleksanterinkatu, passed near the Oodi Library and the Finlandia Hall designed by Alvar Aalto, by the Finnish National Opera and Ballet, and across peaceful suburbs. If Alex had been awake, we would have gotten off at the last station, for a snack at Café Torpanranta and to see the lake (or actually the sea). Quite a cool architectonic and landmark tram tour.
We also wanted to try tram line 6, but we saw just the central part. I read that it’s a great attraction for design, art and cuisine: the south end Hietalahti is the design district, while the north end Arabianranta has “art as part of everyday life”. I hope that meant street art, which I love! There are also museums and market halls along the tram line 6. I hope we’ll visit these areas next time.
Tram 2 is also considered the “sightseeing tram”. It starts near the center in the south, goes past museums and the Church in the Rock on its way north, and reaches the Opera and the Olympic Stadium.
I just loved the old trams, as well as the new. There’s something magical about rail, as opposed to buses!
Helsinki public transport was clean, efficient, and easy to use. We got a travel card in advance at a machine in a station. Check the updated prices and info here on HSL.fi.
More places to visit in Helsinki
You may also want to research and include in your plans:
- Suomenlinna Island, a massive historical fortress to be reached by ferry. It’s great fun to explore on foot and learn about the Finnish history, between bastions and cannons and views of the sea. It’s so large that some people actually live on small cottages there!
- Seurasaari Island, where the Open Air Museum is located, which features bits and pieces from all over Finland spread in a lovely forest. Check the official website for opening times and prices.
- The Temppeliaukio Church, a very cool modern Lutheran church carved in rock
- The Sibelius Monument (map here), a special musical monument, and the beautiful park nearby – with the picturesque Café Regatta by the beach.
Where to eat in Helsinki with kids
- Hesberger: when cold and tired, we relaxed with tasty fast food. This one in the city center has a small indoors playground downstairs, a life saver!
- Fazer Café chain: we had a meal at these cafés every time we saw them. Traditional baked pastries, a sort of make-your-own-salad counter, and sometimes a small buffet with delicious salmon soup and a few other warm meals. Everything was delicious and the atmosphere was comfortable and welcoming.
- St. George Bakery: a super cozy spot with delicious sweet pastries (maybe also savoury ones… But we just had cakes 🙂 ). Take a look also at the cool St. George Hotel next door, it has a few cool halls!
- Supermarkets! It’s always fun to roam the corridors of supermarkets abroad. We tried a few snacks and fruit pouches, it was very convenient.
Where to stay in Helsinki with kids
We spent a few days at a random Airbnb close to our family members, and then 2 nights in the center.
I’m happy to recommend Radisson Blu Aleksanteri Hotel. We loved the historical atmosphere and décor, the room was comfortable and clean, and breakfast was diverse and delicious. The location was convenient and well-connected (map here). Click here to check your dates and book!
I was also considering Hotel Anna because of the great location and good value for money, the Scandic Helsinki Hub for the cool design, and the Omena Hotels for the lower prices.
Porvoo, a picturesque day trip from Helsinki
Located 1 hour away from Helsinki, the capital, Porvoo is a great destination for a day or even just for a few hours (map here). The old town is well-preserved: colorful houses and traditional boutiques, picturesque streets and courtyards, red wooden houses by the river… everything you would imagine an old Finnish fishing town to be.
Actually, it’s more than that: it’s the second oldest city in Finland, and the unique Porvoo Cathedral dates back to the 15th century!
When we visited in February, the lovely sun wasn’t enough against the icy wind. We had a snack at Porvoon Paahtimo café near the frozen river, walked along the main streets and the river with its red huts, up to the Cathedral, and back to the center: one hour, and we were frozen! Especially our hands, because it was impossible not to take pictures. A delicious, traditional lunch at Bistro Gulaf was just what we needed.
Still, it’s a charming place that deserves a visit: Alex loved climbing on piles of snow and “skating” on the ice on the streets.
Even though we were frozen and a bit blinded by the bright light, I really enjoyed a stroll in this pretty town. I couldn’t take proper pics of the famous red houses by the river though, one good reason to go to Porvoo one more time!
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The Santa Claus Express night train in Finland
The overnight Santa Claus Express train from Helsinki to Rovaniemi (Lapland) was definitely one of the highlights of our trip to Finland!
We all enjoyed it and definitely recommend it. Clean, fast, smooth, warm, convenient, and good value for money considering that you are spending a night in it, while travelling more than 800 km all the way north to the Arctic Circle.
The sleeper cabins are small and cozy: two bunk beds with a light and an outlet to charge your phone, a small net for storage, hangers on the wall, and space under the bed for your luggage. The beds are warm and comfortable, and we slept well with Alex next to us (we took turns). You get a water bottle, a towel, and clean bed linen.
Our cheaper cabin on the lower floor of the train featured a sink and mirror, but the toilet and shower were outside; on the upper floor, the larger and more expensive cabins have an en-suite toilet with shower. Anyway, the shared toilet was clean, it even had a potty for kids, so we were very happy with our choice. At the restaurant there’s quite a bit of choice for breakfast, as well as many tables to eat and enjoy the view.
Because, the views!!! The snowy forests and the white icy lakes and the ski tracks and the red wooden huts and the stations in the middle of nowhere. We were just staring out of the window, mesmerized. (And I grew up in the mountains, so it’s not as if this was the first time I saw snow, but it was different here. Going through it by train was magical.)
Alex was very excited (is there any toddler who does not like trains?). He climbed on the upper bunk, explored and played around, and still remembers it after a whole year!
I recommend:
- Taking the night train departing from Helsinki at 23.30 and arriving in Rovaniemi (Lapland) at 11.00, this way you fall asleep straight away, and then enjoy the views when the sun is up (9 am in February)
- Spending at least 1 night in Rovaniemi
- The night train back from Rovaniemi at 21.00, so you have 2 days in Rovaniemi, and you’ll arrive at 9.00 in Helsinki and you have a full day also there
More practical advice:
- Book in advance on the official website VR.com, as it’s popular and prices increase
- Create your account and download the VR Matkalla app, so you have the tickets on your phone, you get notifications and countdowns, it’s super convenient. If you need anything, their customer service on the website chat is very helpful.
- Pay with Wise, the awesome multicurrency card that helps you save on exchange currency fees and all card fees in general!
What to do in Rovaniemi (Lapland, Finland) with a toddler
We spent 36 hours in Rovaniemi: we arrived on the overnight train from Helsinki at 11 a.m., spent one night, and left at 9 p.m. the following day. One and a half days in Rovaniemi are enough to do a few cool things.
Go to Santa Claus Village, of course!
Santa Claus Village is a fun mix between a traditional Finnish village and a Christmas-themed entertainment park. It’s where Santa lives with the elves, where you’ll find reindeer and huskies, and where you can physically step over the Arctic Circle parallel.
Located just outside Rovaniemi, Santa Claus Village is quite large and deserves a few hours of exploration. We met Santa in his office (Alex did not like him) and poked around the post office, crossed the Arctic Circle, had delicious salmon at Santa’s Salmon, and fed the goats and reindeers at Elf’s Farm. There are many more animals, but most of all, there are a few short snowy slopes to slide down on sleds and whatnot: we had soooo much fun, Alex just didn’t want to leave!
It is certainly a very touristy place, but I loved the magical atmosphere. I wish we had time to go to the Ice Restaurant in Snowman’s World, or the money to spend a night in a Glass Igloo and see the Northern lights. I hope we’ll go there again!
Visit the Arktikum Museum
The Arktikum Museum is the best place to learn about the Arctic from every possible point of view. I knew very little and learned a lot.
Science, geography, wildlife, human settlements, energy, traditions. It was sooo interesting! It’s a very interactive exhibition that also Alex enjoyed.
Furthermore, the buffet lunch was delicious and good value for money.
Go ice swimming at Roiske
Get your authentic Finnish sauna and ice swimming experience at Roiske!
Warm up your bones in the sauna, and then make your way down the path until the hole in the ice. It is a shocking, energizing and exhilarating experience! A bit painful too, but I’d do it again. Thank you again Kata for taking me there!
During the summer, it must be a lovely place to relax and enjoy the endless light until late.
Walk around Rovaniemi
The city center of Rovaniemi is quite small. If your accommodation is there, you’ll pass by Lurdy Square, walk down the main street and see the Candle’s Bridge without even planning it.
Where to stay in Rovaniemi with kids and where to eat
We stayed at a great, comfortable and spacious apartment called Elviira Apartment. Even though there are a few hotels and many flats in Rovaniemi, I booked quite late and found limited choice (apartments too big, too far away, or hotels too expensive). I recommend you start checking availability early – here is the Booking.com link for the whole city of Rovaniemi.
We had a very tasty dinner at Café 21, including cocktails! It was cozy and friendly.
Right before we boarded our train, we had a simple burger and relaxed a bit at Hesberger in the main square. This one too, like the one in Helsinki, has a play area for kids, including some active jumping and climbing for big kids! Perfect for parents to chill and kids to let out some energy.
As mentioned before, the buffet at the Arktikum Museum was excellent, quite diverse, and healthy.
There are also a few ethnic restaurants in the city center. But my really best advice is to eat salmon as often and as much as possible, it’s just soooo tasty.
We had a great time in Rovaniemi! What else could you do with kids?
- Go to the Angry Birds Playground (map here)
- Or to this simple playground in this square (check out street view)
- Visit the Pilke Science Museum which should have lots of interactive exhibitions for kids
- Walk along the river or do some sports
- Hike to the Ounasvaraa Hill
- See the northern lights!
Check out the videos in the highlights on Instagram while you plan your trip to Finland.
Useful tips to spend a great week in Finland with kids
What apps should you have on your phone? Do they use cash or card in Finland? How should you book your accommodations?
- The official currency in Finland is the Euro. As always, we used the awesome multicurrency Wise Visa debit card for all our expenses: we saved on exchange fees from our currency and we tracked easily all the purchases. Make sure you order yours in advance, and use the Wise app from your phone! Read my review here and order your card here. Still, we also carried some cash on us, just in case.
- Google Maps was extremely convenient, as well as Google Translate with the camera function to translate signs on the street, instructions and whatever else.
- If you book the night train, download the VR app on your phone and keep your tickets there.
- I booked our accommodation on Booking.com. Both the website and app are easy to use, the hotels have plenty of reviews, and it’s easy to choose based on the location on the map. Booking.com is safe to use.
- Eat salmon. I think I ate salmon every day! Cooked in a soup, roasted on fire, smoked on bread… Delicious!
Final thoughts on spending a week in Finland as a family
These 7 days in Finland were fun, relaxing, diverse, and interesting. All these places and activities leave space and time to play, unwind, nap, and enjoy time together as a family.
Finland is a great destination for families. I highly recommend it!
Not completely convinced? Check out also our family itinerary in Iceland, and what to do on a long weekend in Oslo.
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