A true hidden gem: the town of Mantova, nestled by three lakes in the centre of Northern Italy, is perfect for a day trip from Verona, or for a couple of days away from the crowds of Milan, Venice and Bologna. As an almost-local, I am delighted to present the best things to do in Mantova.
In September 2016, the second part of our nostalgic trip to Italy took us from Bologna to Mantova, the town where my mother’s family lives. As a child, for me it was the town of shopping, multi-screen cinema, and unbearable summer heat; later, it became the beloved setting of the largest and most famous literature festival in Italy, Festivaletteratura, where I was a proud intern for one edition. The festival was one of the reasons why we came: it brings such a special and energetic vibe to the city for 5 days, with hundreds of events in famous and hidden venues.
Now and for the rest of my adult life, it will be a charming little Italian town where I will feel at home, but that will always surprise me with a detail I had not noticed before.
Mantova itinerary on foot
The simplest sightseeing stroll (map here) is a straight line across the square-ish city centre, towards the lakes that surround three sides. This Mantova walking tour is perfect to get a feeling of the city and admire the Mantova landmarks, such as Saint-Andrew Basilica and the Ducale Palace. Even with a lot of stops, it should take 2-3 hours (without visiting the Ducale Palace).
If you have more time, head to the lake promenade for a relaxing walk, or to the stunning Palazzo Te (to the south of the city centre), or just be spontaneous and get lost in the picturesque alleys.
You could probably spend just a day in the small city centre that blossomed during the Renaissance, between the 14th and 16th century. However, as every respectable UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the numerous hidden gems can keep you there easily for more days.
Be efficient: wear comfortable shoes, bring a scarf for ladies who wish to enter churches, and be patient with the weather: it can be very foggy during the winter and terribly hot during the summer.
Start at the Teatro Sociale (map 1), where the romantic “Rio” Canal connects Superior and Inferior lakes, turning the downtown into an island.
Walk along Corso Umberto, an (almost) pedestrian street with porticoes on both sides, fashion boutiques, and cute cafés, as you start to imagine how it must have been living there 600 years ago.
Basilica di Sant’Andrea – Saint Andrew Basilica
Small Piazza Andrea Mantegna square opens your view to the imposing yet perfectly fitting Basilica di Sant’Andrea (map 2), a masterpiece of Renaissance art and architecture by Leon Battista Alberti and later Filippo Juvarra. Go inside to admire the mind-blowing size of its vault, its late 18th-century decorations, and the incredible height of its dome, all gracefully hidden and adjusted from the outside.
Piazza delle Erbe – Erbe Square
Continue by the side of the church to Piazza delle Erbe (map 3). BONUS: check out the ground floor of the building right opposite the bookstore/infopoint at the corner of the church: under the columns of the porticoes, carved tiles show the items sold in the store during the Renaissance!
Beautiful Piazza delle Erbe showcases the Rotonda Church (map 4), the most ancient church in the city (you can “buy” a brick!), and the astronomical clock built in 1473 on the tower of the Palazzo della Ragione (map 5). On Thursdays, the market fills up the square and the surrounding streets.
Keep the square to your right, past the Palazzo del Podestá, to small Piazza Broletto Square (map 6). BONUS: take the side street (map) to the left to reach small Piazza Leon Battista Alberti square at the back of the Basilica, where you can admire the naked bricks of its side, right below the stunning dome.
Piazza Sordello – Sordello Square
Keep going under the vault to reach the main square, Piazza Sordello Square (map 7), long and rectangular, surrounded by a frame of historical buildings that have seen 6 or 7 centuries pass by.
In front of you, the Duomo (map 8), a very geometric cathedral, not as magnificent as Sant’Andrea Basilica, but still unique in its combination of architectural styles.
Palazzo Ducale – the Ducal Palace
To your right, close to the Duomo, stands the Ducal Palace (map 9), the enormous residence of the powerful Gonzaga family for 400 years.
Built and expanded over several centuries, its 500 rooms provide a chance to travel in time, from a gigantic fresco by Pisanello of the 15th century, to halls and corridors decorated with excessive Baroque details.
The real masterpiece is located inside the Castle of San Giorgio: the Bridal Chamber, painted by Mantegna from 1465 to 1475 with an innovative technique that creates an illusion of space, opening the room to country landscapes and to the sky above. It is so beautiful and delicate that access is restricted: be efficient and book in advance!
Be efficient: Beat the crowds and visit the Ducal Palace early in the morning. It’s very easy to spend a few hours in there: it is so beautiful and interesting that it is time well spent.
Castello di San Giorgio – Castle of Saint George
Last stop of the stroll: turn around the Ducal Palace to reach the Castle of San Giorgio (map 10), the park in front of it and the lakes, and end your walk with a medieval selfie. BONUS: for a view of the unique Mantova skyline, walk a little bit on the bridge opposite the castle!
More places to visit in Mantova
2 places to visit close to the Ducal Palace and the lake:
- Bibiena Theatre (map): this masterpiece of baroque architecture hosted Mozart in 1770, when he was just 14 years old. Worth visiting it, but it’s also perfect to attend a performance there.
- Fire Brigade Museum (Galleria Storica Nazionale dei Vigili del Fuoco map): a beautiful exhibition of firefighter trucks, cars, motorcycles and even helicopters since the 1800’s, very interesting and absolutely surprising!
A few minutes away from the centre:
- Casa del Mantegna (map) with its unique circular courtyard included in a square, high external wall
- Palazzo Te (map) a beautiful mannerist palace with gardens. You will be amazed by the fury of the giants in the Sala dei Giganti, decorated until the ceiling with a havoc of crumbling city and vengeful sky.
Just want to relax?
- Head to the Rio canal along Via Filippo Corridoni and by Via Pescheria for a romantic walk under the porticoes
- Get lost in the streets between Via Giuseppe Verdi and the green Piazza VIrgiliana
Best places to eat in Mantova
- Have a coffee at La Bottega del Caffé, standing at the counter, Italian style! Great coffee blends and pastries, plus locals taking a break.
- Delicious gelato at Gelateria Pappa Reale, worth the walk
- Lunch at LaCucina, very Italian with a twist
- Dinner at Bottega d’Arte Gastronomica also Italian but surprising, or at Tiratappi for local cuisine: unmissable risotto with local sausage and ravioli with pumpkin filling
- Very local and rough drinks at Bar Lasagne or fancier cocktails and atmosphere at Papa’s – bring insect repellant!
Mantova guided tour
Make the most of your visit by hiring a guide! I am proud to recommend my aunt, Francesca Camerati at Guide Virgilio, a very professional team of multi-language guides – my aunt guides in Italian, French, Spanish and English! Not only key info on history, art and architecture, but also interesting anecdotes and secret details, to make the time available even more valuable and the city even more surprising.
Here are more useful and interesting tips by the Guardian and by Italy Magazine.
Enjoy Mantova and let us know what you think in the comments! Cheers 🙂
