The best things to do in Cortina in the winter

If you’re planning your winter holiday in the Italian Dolomites, you must be looking for tips on the best things to do in Cortina in the winter!

There is so much to do in this beautiful valley in December, January, and February. Believe me, I tried a lot of activities: I grew up in Cortina, and now I visit with my own family – and we always have a good time.

Whether you are looking for an active holiday, for some relaxation and cultural events, for some tasty food, or for all three, Cortina will satisfy your wishes. Keep reading to find out what to do in winter in Cortina and all of my best advice.

Travel tips for Cortina d’Ampezzo

Before we get to the point, let me share with you some important information that can make or break your stay in Cortina in winter.

• When is the winter season in Cortina? The winter season usually starts at the beginning of December and ends at the end of March or beginning of April. The peak periods are December 8-10, Christmas and New Year’s Eve (Dec 25-Jan 6), Carnival and Easter (change every year).
• How to get to Cortina in the winter: since there isn’t a train station, everybody travels by car or bus. Snow makes the roads more narrow and harder to travel, so plan in some extra time. If you drive, make sure the car has winter tires, or you have snow chains at hand in the trunk (and you know how to put them on!). Find here more information about how to get to Cortina from Venice and other cities.
• Getting around Cortina in the winter: again, if it snows, everything becomes slow and complicated. In particular, parking is a nightmare, so I recommend leaving your car at the hotel and using public transportation. It can be crowded, but if most of us do it, traffic will improve. (December 2022 update: public transport is suspended on Sundays, and the Skibus won’t be active in December. There may be changes coming in January: check out SEAM here and Dolomitibus here)
• Where to stay in Cortina in the winter: what you should consider is a) what activities you want to do, and b) the presence and SIZE of parking lots. Also, some hotels provide shuttle buses from/to the city centre and the slopes, which can be very handy. I recommend the lovely Hotel Trieste.
• Weather in Cortina in the winter: I’ve seen some very white winters with frequent snowfalls, as well as dry winters that requires a heavy use of snow guns. Anyway, it’s still really cold, with frequent drops below 0C. However, on a sunny day, you’re very likely to open up your zipper and enjoy some sunshine on your face and neck 🙂 either way, bring sunscreen or face lotion to protect your skin from the wind.
• What to wear in Cortina: Warm waterproof boots, thermals under your pants, cozy sweaters and a quality coat (choose one longer than your hips for extra warmth) are the bare minimum. Don’t forget wool gloves, beanie and scarf against the wind. If you plan to spend time on the snow, pack sunglasses against the glare. Cortina can be a fancy place, so bring also something nice and smart for dinners out. Finally, don’t forget your swimsuit, if your hotel has a pool or spa!
• Is Cortina expensive? It is, if you want it to be! Hotel, dinner out everyday, skiing… it adds up. But you can also rent a flat, buy groceries at the Eurospin discount, cook at home, and enjoy strolling around and other cheap activities. By the way, the currency is Euro and credit cards are widely accepted (but it’s safer to have some cash on you).

What to do in Cortina in the winter

There is so much to do in winter in Cortina. Here you will find information about:

• Winter sports, such as skiing, snowboarding, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and uphill skiing, ice-skating, curling, and sledding;
• How to relax in Cortina
• Where are the best views of snowy Cortina,
• What are the cultural institutions and events in the winter,
• Where to go shopping and eating,
• What to do in Cortina city centre, and
• What are the events, celebrations and national holidays in the winter

Skiing in Cortina

Cortina d’Ampezzo is known as the Queen of the Dolomites for a reason! The majestic Dolomites peaks surround the wide Ampezzo valley and provide 120 km of slopes of all difficulties.

The ski slopes in Cortina are located on different mountains:

• Tofana mountain: these beautiful slopes are the home of the Women’s Alpine Skiing World Cup every January! Tofana slopes are on the western side of Cortina. Reach them from the Socrepes chairlift or from the Freccia nel Cielo gondola/cable car. From those Rifugios (Col Druscié, Ra Valles and Cima Tofana) the views are gorgeous.
• Faloria-Cristallo mountains: from Faloria you can enjoy views of Cortina and also of the other valleys; the slopes go down “behind” Faloria, where the Cristallo slopes start at Rio Gere. Reach them from Faloria cablecar or by car from Rio Gere (a bit outside Cortina).
• Lagazuoi mountain: located slightly outside Cortina (you have to drive or take a bus to Falzarego Pass), Lagazuoi is special because of its stunning views over multiple valleys and peaks. After taking the Lagazuoi cable car and admiring the view from the Rifugio at the top, you can ski back down on the Lagazuoi slope, or ski fo 8.5 km (that’s a 5-6 hours experience!) down the panoramic Armentarola valley, and get pulled to the shuttle bus by a horse cart. This is a truly memorable experience in Cortina!
• More slopes in Cortina: Honorable mention goes to the Cinque Torri slopes and the surrounding area: wonderful views, and recently connected to the Tofana

Skiing is a fun and thrilling activity, but it can also be chill and relaxed – especially if you stop for a snack and to lay in the sun at one of the many restaurants and refuges on the slopes.

Most of all, it has a good rhythm: as you go down the slope you feel excited, use your muscles, warm up, focus on yourself, and then on the chairlift you can breathe, rest a few minutes, chat with your companions, and cool down.

Even though getting started in the morning can feel overwhelming (believe me, I hate getting dressed for skiing!), skiing in Cortina is fun and the views are just stunning.

Some more tips for a successful day of skiing in Cortina:

• Start early, because the weather is usually better in the morning. Of course, this means it’s also a bit more crowded. If the forecast is really great, you could also ski just in the afternoon.
• You can buy a ski pass at the start of the slopes and use it on all chairlifts. Cable cars, instead, cost extra.
• Beginners will probably be tired after a half-day skiing.
• Beginners should hire a ski teacher, to have more fun and avoid injuring themselves and others. Even just a couple of hours with a teacher will be extremely useful! I recommend Scuola Sci Cortina and their talented local teachers.
• Parents should DEFINITELY hire a teacher for their children. It’s even more important to give them a fun first experience skiing!
• If you rent equipment, try to book it in advance and calculate 20-30 minutes to try it on. Choose a rental shop close to the slopes, e.g. Socrepes rental, Jgor rental at Faloria cable car, or at the 3 shops of the excellent Snow Service.
• What to wear skiing: warm socks, leggings or thermals, warm fleece, a sweater if it’s very cold, and of course the ski suit. Water- and wind-proof gloves are fundamental, as well as the helmet (it may save your life). Your jacket should protect your neck, so a scarf may just choke you. Ski goggles are great against the glare of the snow, and don’t forget the sunscreen! Bring with you cash and card, ID, phone, tissues, and chapstick.
• Stay safe! Do not go on fresh snow, do not stop in the middle of the piste, do not zigzag. And remember the Italian number for the ambulance: 118.

A couple of important questions are:

• Which Cortina ski slopes are best for beginners? I’d say Socrepes at Tofane, but also some slopes of Faloria are easy! The biggest difference is that people who suffer heights may have a tough time on the Faloria cablecar, while people who suffer crowds may get nervous at the parking lot of Socrepes.
• What is the best Cortina ski slope? Well, it depends on what you are looking for! In my opinion, the most thrilling one is the Schuss on Tofana mountain, as steep as a rollercoaster. The most satisfying one is the full run from the top of Schuss, down several slopes until the parking lot at Socrepes (especially if it’s the last run). The most stunning scenery of the Cortina valley is at Faloria, and at Lagazuoi you get incredible views of countless peaks.

Snowboarding in Cortina

Curious to try? Give snowboarding a go! I took snowboarding lessons with my friends in high school and we had so much fun.

Snowboarding is popular both on Socrepes-Tofana slopes and on Faloria. Pros should look into the Faloria snowpark on the Franchetti slope.

For a wonderful day on the snow, make sure you follow the same tips about skiing, plus one: protection on your knees and wrists will make a difference, because beginners will fall a lot! Believe me, I almost wanted a pillow on my bottom 😀

Cross-country skiing in Cortina

If you don’t like heights and steep slopes, you will probably enjoy cross-country skiing. This sport allows you to ski on almost-flat trails through the snowy woods: it’s great physical exercise in a peaceful, magical environment.

Where to do cross-country skiing in Cortina? Fiames is the place: in this area north of the city centre you’ll find the rental shop and the trail that lead on to the Old Railway.

More useful information:

• Reach Fiames by bus n.1 or by car
• If it’s your first time, I recommend hiring a teacher at Scuola Sci Fondo Cortina Dolomiti
• More experienced cross-country skiers can try the area of Pian de ra Spines, close to Fiames

Snowshoeing and uphill skiing

They are becoming more and more popular for a reason! Snowshoeing and uphill skiing are unique ways of exploring the snow-capped mountains.

But what are these winter sports?

Snowshoeing means wearing two tennis-racket-looking devices under your winter boots that help walking on snow without slipping or sinking into the fresh snow. It is fun and it can be as tiring as you want it to: it’s an effort to walk up a slope, but then it’s easy and enjoyable to walk around and admire the valley from a different point of view. It’s easier to walk up a flat and compact ski slope, but it’s more fun to venture out in the fresh snow.

Uphill skiing means using skis with special “skins” glued underneath and special bindings to your ski boots, so that you can walk up the slopes. This is definitely more tiring than snowshoeing, but it is very rewarding (if you are fit enough to survive), and fun to ski back down. Of course, you should do it on suitable pistes, where you don’t risk accidents with skiers coming down.

Cortina is a great spot for snowshoeing and uphill skiing, because of the variety of settings and slopes where you can do it and the wonderful views you get to enjoy!

We tried snowshoeing once, and Darek even had baby Alex in the carrier: it was a tiring but fun experience! Also, I went uphill skiing years ago with my friend Elettra – just because there was a party at the rifugio on top of the slope. We had fun, and the day after our legs were terribly sore 😀

As a couch potato myself, I think beginners would have fun playing around with snowshoes, while more proficient skiers could enjoy giving a try to uphill skiing. Both my experiences were in the Mietres area – if you’re looking for more ideas but can’t find them in English, search for “sci pelli Cortina” in Italian and then Google-translate the results.

Rent out some equipment and go!

Ice-skating in Cortina

It is wonderful to ice-skate in Cortina, and it is such an underrated activity! Very often, the rink is half-empty, so you enjoy it even more.

The only place to skate in Cortina is at the Olympic Ice Stadium “Stadio del Ghiaccio”, located close to the city centre (map here). The original structure of concrete and wood was built for the 1956 Winter Olympics which took place in Cortina; the roof and the blue metal supports were added in the 2000s. (Ok, I know Pianozes Lake can freeze over and they were skating there in January 2021, but it’s extremely rare, so don’t count on it).

In winter, ice skating is available for a couple of hours in the morning and in the afternoon, usually 10.30-12.30 and 14.30-16.30 (the official website is not always updated, but worth checking). There is a ticket for skating, plus a ticket to rent skates if you don’t bring your own (you can also rent a helmet). The morning ticket is available just for the morning and the afternoon ticket only for the afternoon: if you arrive 30 minutes before closing time, you’ll pay the full price for those 30 minutes.

Come in, put on the skates, and enjoy sliding gracefully on the ice! Beginners and children should definitely hire a teacher: classes are just 20 minutes and they are enough to gain some confidence.

At the ice rink you will also find a bar with snacks and coffee, a cool playground (which may be covered in snow), and restrooms.

Some more tips for a great time ice-skating:

• Parking spots are limited, so consider taking public transport or walking.
• The best time to skate is on a sunny day, when everybody else is queueing on the ski slopes.
• It is less crowded in the morning than in the afternoon.
• Sometimes the ice rink is closed for special events, so make sure you check in advance.
• Teachers are fully booked in the Christmas period, so call them in advance. They accept reservations only by phone and payment by cash (EUR of course).
• Wear warm clothes and socks! The ski suit may be too much, but thermals and a sweater under your coat will be great.

Curling in Cortina

Did you know that Cortina was one of the first towns where curling was played in Italy? After the 2006 Winter Olympics in Turin, this unique winter sport became more popular, but Cortina is still one of the leading towns with many athletes competing at national and international level (including me!).

Cortina and Milan will host the 2026 Winter Olympics, and the curling matches will take place in Cortina!

Nowadays, the athletes practice at the Olympic Stadium, next to the ice rink. It used to be possible to hire a teacher to learn and play: contact them directly for updated information.

Sledding and tobogganing in Cortina

Although there isn’t an official sled or toboggan slope/trail in Cortina, you can still rent one and have fun by yourself on the snowy hills!

Beginners should choose the plastic “bobs” which can easily slide down a hill of fresh snow. Especially with children, this is a lot of fun, because the speed you achieve is thrilling but not dangerous. Try the areas of Guargnè and Pierosà, but truly any slope with a little inclination works.

Adults, on the other hand, could probably enjoy dining at an authentic rifugio and then coming down at night with the sled on the empty ski slopes! Rifugio Averau, Malga Ra Stua, Rifugio Mietres and Rifugio Dibona usually organize such events.

For rentals, I recommend Snow Service.

Relaxing in Cortina

Not all is about winter sports 🙂 Cortina is the perfect place to relax and get pampered.

For starters, it’s possible to get a tan even in the winter! On a bright sunny day, there’s nothing better than sitting on a restaurant terrace and warming up – although it may be just your face 🙂

Those looking to enjoy the views should take the cablecars: the panoramas from Rifugio Faloria on one side of the valley, and from the three Rifugios on Tofana (Col Drusciè, Ra Valles and Cima Tofana) on the other side are just stunning – they are all perfect places to enjoy a meal or a snack.

One of my favourite things to do in the winter in Cortina is going for a walk on the Old Railway, the “passeggiata ex-ferrovia” that cross Cortina from south to north. The physical effort is almost none because it’s almost flat, and the views are just wonderful. When it snows it’s even more magical! After a massive snowfall, the municipality comes to clean it fairly quickly.

There are also plenty of spas in Cortina: try the luxurious Hotel Cristallo or Hotel Rosapetra if you feel like splurging, or the central Hotel Bellevue for a couple of hours of affordable relaxation, or stay at Hotel Trieste to take advantage of their private wellness area. The best experience I had in a spa in Cortina was at the Tennis Country Club, wandering between saunas and steam baths and a jacuzzi until we felt warm enough to walk outside in the snow without a shiver. Just incredible!

Finally, keep an eye on cultural events in Cortina. The book festival Una Montagna di Libri sometimes welcomes international writers; at the Modern Art Museum Mario Rimoldi you will find some interesting paintings (including a few by Italian celebrities); at the Palaentological Museum Rinaldo Zardini plenty of incredible fossils await those into science; and at the Ethnographic Museum of the Regole d’Ampezzo you can learn about the fascinating history of Cortina and the unique crafts made here for generations. All these indoors places are perfect if you don’t know what to do on a rainy day in Cortina.

Exploring the city centre

If you haven’t taken a selfie with the bell tower, you haven’t been to Cortina!

The city centre of Cortina consists of the long pedestrian street Corso Italia and the nearby streets, surrounded by the ring road Circonvallazione. Corso Italia is approximately 700 meters long and slightly uphill, with the lowest point to the south – another good reason to wear winter non-slip shoes.

Corso Italia is famous for its high fashion boutiques, jewelleries and handcrafts shops, expensive hotels, pretty cafés and trendy wine bars – all surrounded by the gorgeous Dolomites. During the winter, it’s great to stroll up and down, stop for a coffee and a pastry during the day or for a drink in the evening, and do some window-shopping and people-watching.

Right in the middle of Corso Italia is the Church of Santi Filippo e Giacomo, the iconic bell tower, and the wide Piazza Angelo Dibona (previously Piazza Venezia, also known as “La Conchiglia”). If you visit Cortina for New Year’s Eve, this is the place to be to celebrate with an energetic crowd.

Downhill to the south you’ll find the Modern Art Museum, many boutiques, and the popular La Cooperativa, the local mall. Whatever you may need, you’ll find it here: groceries, wine, beauty products, home decor, books, stationery, clothing of all types and sizes, shoes, toys underwear, suitcases, sports gear, and even a public toilet on the top floor. As you may imagine, it’s always quite crowded, but it deserves a visit!

To the north of the church, there are more boutiques, cafés and bars.

The atmosphere on a snowy winter day is really special. In December, Corso Italia is illuminated with Christmas decorations; in January and February it’s quite peaceful, except for the Carnival week in February when it’s bustling with kids in costumes.

A few more tips about Cortina city centre in the winter:

• You can stroll up and down Corso Italia in 30 minutes, but consider 2-3 hours to enjoy the area in a relaxed way.
• After a snowfall, the bulldozers clean the streets and pile up the snow in “mountains” along the sides of Corso Italia. These are THE BEST entertainment for children: they can climb up and slide down these piles of snow for hours – while you drink a coffee or a glass of wine nearby, for example at La Suite or at Bar Sport.
• The views are wonderful from lots of spots in the city centre: my favourite view of the bell tower and the Tofana is from here but the best view of Tofana is from here.
• How to get to Corso Italia: reach it by bus at Piazza Roma or at the Bus Station. By car, park around the Bus Station, at Piazzale delle Poste, at the Parcheggio Ex Mercato, or at the Parcheggio Multipiano Farsetti (all paid parkings). Of course, if it snows a lot the parking lots may not be accessible.

Shopping in Cortina

Cortina is a great place to shop for luxury items, sports clothing, and local delicacies and handcrafts.

Find luxury clothes at the Kraler boutiques, Bredo, while check out the Guerresco shops (owned by locals) for shoes and bags.

There are excellent sports brands at 2UE&2UE, North Face, Colmar, Salewa, and on the first floor of Cooperativa – if you want to upgrade/update your winter wardrobe, Cortina is the place! Morotto also has good brands and discounts, located in the outskirts at Fiames.

My favourite shop for more unique clothing is Test Cortina, while Darek bought a wonderful sweater at Marinotti. I love the home décor at Sottosopra – the blankets and pillows are handmade by my friend Alice! If you want to go home with nice, traditional clothes, head to Ghedina Zuccaro, while at Artigianato Artistico Ampezzano you can buy more traditional and alpine home items and jewellery.

Where to buy souvenirs in Cortina? If you didn’t like the shops I mentioned, check out the ground floor of the Cooperativa shopping centre for mugs, magnets, soaps and more Cortina souvenirs.

Tips for winter shopping in Cortina:

• During the winter, most shops will obviously showcase their winter collection, but you may also find some spring items on show for the selected and cool audience of Cortina.
• If you plan to buy winter clothing in Cortina, make sure you leave some space in the suitcase!

Social life and eating in Cortina

Socializing and eating come together in Cortina! The cold temperatures make social life in winter in Cortina both challenging and exciting.

Strolling up and down the Corso Italia pedestrian street in the city centre is a thing. You admire the beautiful scenery, and you do people-watching (which makes you part of the people-watching experience of everyone else). Whether during a snowfall, or on a sunny day, strolling Corso Italia is a must-do in winter in Cortina.

Cafés and bars offer warm coffees and hot chocolates AND alcoholic drinks like Aperol Spritz, wine and beer at any time of the day and night. Sometimes you may also find mulled wine, while a winter classic is Bombardino, a warm alcoholic drink based on egg liquor and rum or brandy! Wherever you may go, starting from 5-6 pm you’ll start to see everyone with a glass of wine or beer: it’s the aperitivo, the pre-dinner drinks ritual where Italians socialize. It’s my favourite time of the day 🙂

Now, what are the best cafés and bars in Cortina? Embassy and Lovat are the cafés on the posh side of the spectrum; Bar Sport and Hacker are much more informal (and yet all the clients of Bar Sport hang out outside, in a watch-me-enjoy-life kind of attitude); La Suite, Enoteca Baita Fraina, LP 26 and Villa Sandi are quite fancy wine bars. Special mention goes to my favourite bars/cafés in Cortina: Top Bar in the city centre offers excellent sandwiches and cocktails; La Scaletta is perfect both for coffee and wine, and lots of locals hang out there; and at Molo Pub you’ll find delicious sandwiches, craft beers and cocktails, but absolutely NO coffee.

As far as dinner goes, there are great restaurants both in the centre and in the outskirts. During Christmas time (Dec 25 – Jan 6) I recommend booking in advance, as you may not find a table otherwise. My favourites are Ariston and Passetto for pizza and Italian dishes, as well as Pizzeria Cinque Torri. A bit outside of the centre are the excellent Al Camin and El Camineto. The view is wonderful at Chalet Tofana, while at Brite de Larieto you’ll find very local dishes mostly produced with ingredients from the farm and garden.

Those looking for a unique experience should have dinner at a rifugio mountain hut like Rifugio Averau, Malga Ra Stua, Rifugio Mietres and Rifugio Dibona: not only the cuisine is traditional, but they will come to pick you up at the bottom of the slopes with a snowmobile!

Special events in winter in Cortina

There are many events in Cortina in the winter, which usually bring a lot of visitors. Make sure you choose carefully when to travel.

Cortina Fashion Week

Around December 8-10 Cortina hosts the Cortina Fashion Week: the local shops and boutiques showcase their winter collections, with live music, light shows, aperitivos and presentations at the Conchiglia stage of Piazza Dibona. The atmosphere is exclusive and exciting.

Christmas

Cortina is not too crowded on December 24th and 25th, because all the Italian visitors are spending Christmas at home before coming to Cortina on the 26th or 27th. This is the perfect time to enjoy a special dinner at your hotel, or to cook at your apartment. Some of the traditional Italian foods for Christmas are the “cotechino” sausage with lentils, fish, and the “panettone” and “pandoro” desserts.

NYE

New Year’s Eve in Cortina is a big thing! Whether you spend it at your hotel, at your apartment with friends, at a restaurant with a fancy menu, or on Corso Italia in the city centre, you’ll have a wonderful time. Of course, fireworks will explode at midnight – watch out for kids and irresponsible people who make it dangerous instead of fun.

Women’s Alpine Skiing World Cup

Around January 20th, the slopes of Tofana host one of the races of the Women’s Alpine Skiing World Cup. The races last one weekend and they bring a powerful energy to the valley. If you’re into ski, definitely buy a ticket and watch the races! As you can imagine, many hotels accommodate athletes and technicians, and some slopes are reserved for the races.

Carnival

Canival takes place in February or early March – find the dates here – and in Cortina, it’s a celebration with lots of events, starting on Fat Thursday and finishing on the following Tuesday.

You’ll find groups of dressed-up children roaming the Corso Italia main street, asking for treats at restaurants and shops; there is a parade of floats on trucks; there is a cross-country skiing competition between the 6 districts of Cortina called “Palio”; the local band (wind ensemble) plays on Corso Italia, also dressed up in costumes.

However, you won’t find any typical mask in Cortina, nor people wearing the Venice masks. A day trip to Venice could be cool: ride the bus for a couple of hours, enjoy the crowd and excitement in Venice, and come back in the evening. Tiring but cool!

Final thoughts on what to do in Cortina in the winter

Between winter sports, cultural events, social life and gastronomy, there are so many cool things to do in Cortina in December, January and February. Whether it snows or not, you’ll enjoy the magical atmosphere in the centre and the wonderful view of the Dolomites all around.

I hope this post was useful and helped you plan your trip to Cortina and the Dolomites in the winter!

Did you experience the winter in Cortina? Are you planning to? Let me know in the comments 🙂