If you’re planning to trek in the Dolomites during your stay in Cortina d’Ampezzo, you must have read about the Croda da Lago hike. Considering that the whole ring around the Croda da Lago mountain takes 6 hours, we’re proud to present the short and easy Croda da Lago hike, couch potato version!
Are you a couch potato? So are we! Nonetheless, when we do manage to get up from our lovely sofa, we enjoy spending time outdoors. We share our super-easy hikes, stories and adventures on our series “Hiking for couch potatoes“. If we can do it, you can do it too!
Quick comparison: short Vs long hike
The Croda da Lago mountain, the lake at its feet, and the Rifugio Croda da Lago hut are one of the most beautiful sights in the Italian Dolomites. You will come across these locations during the first part of the hike, after walking through the woods and making your way up the side of the mountain. Being the couch potatoes that we are, we were invited by our dear friend Elettra to do just this short part, with the best motivation of all: enjoying a delicious slice of cake for breakfast at the Rifugio Croda da Lago hut (also called Rifugio Palmieri).
The full ring continues after the hut, for approximately 6 hours. It’s not particularly difficult, but it takes more time and energy than we had. The trees disappear and leave space to admire the view around you: the amazing Dolomites, valleys and crevices, peaks and plateaus, sometimes almost resembling a lunar landscape.
I was exhausted after hiking for 6 hours the previous day, and I was in no condition to hike for 6 hours again. Someday we will do the full circuit around Croda da Lago, and we will tell you all about it 🙂
Cortina, Cristallo and Pomagagnon mountains
Get ready
This hike takes 2 hours from the parking lot to the hut, and a bit less to go back. We had breakfast at the hut, so it took us 4 hours in total, from 6.45 to 10.45 in the morning.
I managed to do it after destroying my legs the day before at Cascate di Fanes. If I made it, you can make it too!
It is a very easy hike, but you still need a few basic items:
- Suitable shoes with a strong, comfortable sole for the rocky parts of the trail. Sometimes, landslides bring down bigger rocks and tree branches, which you may have to overcome.
- An extra layer for the cloudy moments
- There aren’t any grassy meadows to cross, so don’t worry about ticks. Short trousers are ok.
- Some water
- Money for coffee and cakes (euro and cards are accepted)
You should also take into account:
- Check the weather, and do not go if it rains. It may be slippery and dangerous.
- Do this hike between June and October/early November (same opening period of the hut)
- It’s a safe hike. There aren’t any dangerous or exposed parts, so I consider this hike suitable for children or people who suffer from heights.
- Lunch at the Rifugio could be quite crowded: if you plan to enjoy lunch there, get there no later than 12.
- You should not depart after 10 AM, as it gets warm and crowded. We were so happy to start at 6.45 AM: it was nice and fresh, and we were alone until the hut!
- The elevation gain is 350 meters (mt. 1695 to mt. 2046).
- The length of the trail is approx. 4 km.
And the usual golden rules:
- Do NOT leave the trail.
- Take your garbage with you, and pick up any other garbage you see.
- Keep yourself hydrated.
- Nod or say “Buongiorno” to other hikers.
The itinerary of Croda da Lago hike – easy version
The hike starts at Rucurto (also know as Ru Curto, literally “the short stream) (Google Maps here, search for Hiking track 437), on the road between Cortina and passo Giau (SP638), approx 20 minutes by car from Cortina. On the left there is some space to park your car. Hiking track 437 starts here, at mt. 1695. At Cason di Formin, a wood barrack, it turns into hiking track 434, until the Croda da Lago hut.
Google Maps © 2019
The trail
Walk for approximately 1 hour uphill, sometimes gently, sometimes a bit harshly.
The hardest part come very early on: a set of steps on the side of a rock, to make your legs feel alive and active.
The beautiful trail 437/434 winds between the trees, then climbs up along the side of the mountain, slowly showing a fantastic view of the Cinque Torri (the 5 Towers) and of the side of Tofana di Rozes on the left.
I was quite breathless on multiple occasions, but at least the air was still nice and fresh!
Take a deviation to the left and reach a gorgeous panorama of Cortina: the valley below, and around it the peaks of Tofana di Rozes, Pomagagnon, Cristallo, Sorapiss and Antelao. They are all above 3000 meters, and it feels like you’re almost up there with them!
and Mount Pomagagnon and Cristallo
Extra info: the sign says “Val Negra” because of a fire that turned everything black, even the soil.
Lake Federa
From there, there’s just 30-40 more minutes: a little bit more uphill walk, and then it’s more or less flat and downwards. There may be cows grazing among the trees, minding their own business and enjoying life!
Finally, you will reach lake Federa. The reflection of the Croda da Lago mountain, on your right, will be so perfect that the lake looks almost invisible in pictures. It is such a rewarding sight!
Now that you can finally breath, it’s a good moment to share some interesting information about the lake.
The official name of the lake is Lago di Fédera. Fédera comes from Féda, which means sheep, which refers to the pastures in the area. It is also called Lago da Lago, “The lake of the lake”: that’s because the mountain “Croda da lago” literally means “the mountain of the lake”. Isn’t it funny that the lake gives the name to the mountain, and then takes it back from the mountain?
Check out more hiking trails with a lake!
The Rifugio Croda da Lago Hut
At the end of the lake, there is the Rifugio Croda da Lago Hut. In front of you, the iconic Becco di Mezzodì peak, and plenty of other hikes and possibilities.
The Rifugio Croda da Lago was built in 1901 by Giovanni Barbaria “Zuchin”, a local alpine guide. In the restaurant, you can find the original invitation to the grand opening of the refuge, framed and hanged on a wall: beautiful calligraphy invites the reader to attend on September 2nd at 10:30. It is written in Italian, German and English! It really feels like travelling in time. Consider also that Cortina was under Austrian rule, back then.
Different local families manage the hut over the decades. In 1920, now part of Italy, the Cortina section of CAI (Club Alpino Italiano) takes on the management of the hut. In 1948, the name of Gianni Palmieri is added, to commemorate the Partisan doctor and soldier who was awarded a military gold medal during World War II. His family also made a donation to the refuge, in his memory.
Since 1994, the Alverá “Pazifico” family manages the mountain hut. I mean it literally: alpine guide Modesto and his wife Monica have 6 children, most of whom work at the refuge. They also have young children of their own, who add to the playful and welcoming atmosphere of the hut.
Make sure you try the delicious cakes that Monica bakes! Together with a cappuccino or a cup of tea, they are the perfect energy booster during a hike. Hearty, mountain food is served for lunch, and also for dinner if you wish to spend the night. Dorms of 6, 9 and 12 beds are available. There’s also a sauna!
Find more information here, on the official website of Croda da Lago hut.
The way back
We walked back to the same way in 1 hour and 15 minutes until the parking lot at Rucurto.
Do not underestimate the descent: it can be a real killer to your knees and joints. Take it slowly and be careful not to slip.
We met some small groups climbing up, already sweaty with effort, and we felt very lucky to be on our way back.
Our experience
I won’t deny that some parts were pretty steep, but nothing impossible even for me. I was breathless just a few times, and asking “are we there yet?” to Elettra no more than 5-6 times 😀
My friend Elettra wisely proposed to start at 6.30 AM. We were alone on the trail, in silence among the sounds of the woods, as the light slowly expanded around us.
At the Rifugio, the hikers who spent the night were just leaving, so the restaurant was empty and quiet. The delicious cakes tasted even better after the hike!
On the way back, we met a lot of hikers on the trail, and at the starting point, the parking lot was absolutely packed.
Are you planning to do this hike? Have you been there already? Let us know in the comments! Cheers!
